Coming from a British background Patrick & I would probably be quick to associate the expression "up-and-coming" with notions of audacity or experimentation. At Milan Fashion Week last February, we were struck how, in actual fact, this depends on the context. Gabriele Colangelo, for example - who has to be classified as one of Italy's rising designers - presented silhouettes structured around curves, with leg-of-mutton sleeves and a focus on cinched waists. The collection thereby based itself on classic shapes whilst playing around with patterns, defined shapes and deep neck-lines for a more youthful approach. And inevitably, being an Italian brand, fur featured prominently as an additional sign that young Italian designers tend to work within the traditional frameworks of Italian fashion.
Photography Patrick Clark