Thursday, May 31, 2012


I’ve been looking for a new fragrance for a while now, ever since I noticed my Bleu de Chanel was slowly but inevitably disappearing. I fell in love with it two years ago and have to say I am still obsessed it with it.
But it’s time for something new, even though I’m sure I’ll come back to Bleu again in the future. With the mass of fragrances there are out there, I’ve been rooting through interviews, reviews, searching through prominent parfumiers’ work and trying to understand which ones really are fragrances, as opposed to a marketing ideas or brand revivals.
As much as I have always fallen for the campaigns which build up the reputation, the idea of going to the source of the fragrance has become my main interest.  A new fragrance which works with smells created especially (as opposed to creating a mix of commonly used chemicals) is 7 Billion Hearts, by Christopher Brosius. He originally worked for Demeter, and created fragrances such as Dirt, Snow and Thunderstorm, all highly influential fragrances in terms of the history of the industry, and moved on to creating his own company, I Hate Perfume. His work focuses on slightly more abstract smells, like falling snow, or dirt.

Similarly, other parfumiers like Eddie Roschi and Fabrice Penot, founders of LeLabo use ‘pure’ perfume ingredients as opposed to chemical blends. I’ve definitely fallen for the philosophy behing Etat Libre D’Orange’s work, with their humourous perfumes, such as Fils de Dieu (a wild mix of Ginger, Rice, Ambre and leather) or Je Suis Un Homme (Bergamote based, which Napoleon allegedly used before going to battles…).
Le Labo

Apart from the Tom ford lines and my faithful Chanel, I have to say a lot of the big fashion houses’ perfumes don’t appeal to me. A trip to Etat Libre D’Orange is in order on my next trip to Paris. The search continues, as it turns out going down unbeaten tracks has been fruitful in terms of more avant-garde creations.
Do you have any recommendations? What fragrance do you use? And how did you choose it? Let’s hear it!


  1. Hi Patrick!
    Did you try Bulgari fragrances? I like AQVA and BVLGARI Pour Homme (trasparent version, not Soir etc...). They are both fresh and elegant. If you prefer "orange" perfume you should try Moschino Friends, is an old perfume, a mix of orange, wood and incense, it's very good. Of course the best one is Extreme by Tom Ford...but a little too expensive for just 50ml. Isn't it? ;)

    Alessandro -

    1. fab, I will be sure to check them out! Tom Ford is a definite favourite, you're right... who can beat the simplicity of the design of the bottles?!

  2. I love bleu de Chanel, even if it's a mens parfume!